I managed to climb Unshackled after a crucial crimp broke. The crimp used to be on the dirty looking spot underneath the sloper that I grabbed before the lip. The crimp made it much easier to transition your feet over to the lip as a tow hook and reach up to the lip easily. I believe that getting to the lip is now the crux where before the crux for me was the first two moves. This is why I think Unshackled is now a v11 and a few others that have done the move in isolation think this too. Psyched it still goes! Thanks to Andy Hanemann for the video and Gaz Leah and Robin Evans for the spots!
Autor: Jeremy Fullerton