Climbing in Jailhouse

nice little crag 2hr from SFO. kinda secret... no guidebook and no outsiders, maily cause access issues (gonna change this year apparently). the rock is basalt, it look chossy at first, but is just really blocky all the time. the knee-bar heaven (or hell). i got here with a degree in kneebar from rodellar, and i leave with a phd! but still a nobody compared to the lovelly local-sandbaggers: spray-glue(!) + stealth rubber + ducktape on the pre-shaved leg...on BOTH legs: TOTAL MADDNESS, mr Edlinger would shoot himself in the face. super tricky climb IMPOSSIBLE without a detailed beta by a local, also cause the super sandbag level of each climb, graded after months of attempts and kneebars-faggotry! 35 lines all around .13, usually short+ extension (making a total of 70 lines). usually either ''gone in 60 second'' style or 2hr -kneebars adventure: make ur call! as i previusly said, NANDO: you would LOVE this place: de la buze! last detail: all quickdraws (1000!) pre-placed 4 eternity... Nando, u'd really orgasm here! NOTE: 20' approch, eagles everywhere, named after the jail next door (DONT pick up people, either a inmate freshly released or a fuggitive=), all route's name in jail theme (funny), sketchy first 3-5mt sant lorent-style (bt 5m, not 15!=)

07-03-2011